Category Archives: Commuting

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Tips for cycling in Melbourne’s wet weather

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Well Roulers,

April has been a really crap time for riding and blogging. The combination of bad weather and an early Autumn cold has me off the bike and off my game. I wasn’t able to do the MS Melbourne Cycle weekend either.  Bother…

This morning was the first longish ride I’ve done since returning from holidays and it was a sodden and cold 34 km, with the last 7 km into a driving headwind. I don’t know how the Dutch and Belgians ride in these conditions in the lowland classics.  Breakfast at Balderdash has never tasted so good.

Notwithstanding a pretty slow and miserable ride it made me thing about my personal safety and what I should be doing while riding in the wet.  I figured that would be a good topic for an Autumn blog entry.  It is also revisiting a topic I wrote about back in August last year after seeing Chris Froome bow out of the Tour de France.

So here’s some on tips on wet weather riding:

  1. Your tyres only provide traction for one activity at a time: braking, steering or accelerating. Don’t risk losing traction by braking or sprinting around bends. Brake on the approach, flow round, ride away.
  2. Avoid riding through puddles, particularly if you can’t see the bottom of them. They could conceal shards of glass, potholes and slippery surfaces like painted lines or ironworks.
  3. Your brakes will be a lot less efficient in the wet, especially if you have rim brakes and are on very wet roads. This means your stopping distance in the wet is greatly increased so you’ll need to leave plenty of room to slow down and stop.  You may need to “pump” the brakes a little to dry the rims. In addition, don’t forget to give your brakes a really wipe to remove all the grit that’s splashed up during your ride.   An old toothbrush is perfect for this.
  4. A back wheel slide under braking can be controlled with practice.  However, a front wheel slide isn’t quite as easy to recover from.  So take it easy on that front brake and use more emphasis on the rear brake.  If you’re on very slippery surfaces keep pedalling while you use the back brake to prevent the wheel from locking.
  5. Drivers may have problems seeing through wet or steamy windscreens when it’s raining. This means you need to take extra care to be visible with front and rear lights on your bike and helmet.  Bright clothing high visibility clothing and pannier covers will also help.
  6. Pedestrians are doing their best to get where they’re going in without getting wet.  They may have rain hoods up or have visibility shielded by umbrellas.  This will means they may not see you coming so you have to be extra vigilant (and visible) and be prepared to avoid them.
  7. In low light, clear or yellow lenses for eye protection are critical. When riding in the rain, normal sunglasses cut out too much light and can make road obstacles hard to see.
  8. Warm and waterproof clothing will make you much more comfortable so you can concentrate on riding safely. Wear good gloves and overshoes as well as a waterproof jacket.  If you wear glasses consider wearing a hat with a peak to help keep the rain off of them.
  9. Newly laid tarmac may be greasy and slippery so you need to be extra cautious on new roads.
  10. If you’re a regular commuter consider fitting mudguards for the winter season. They will stop the spray into your face off the front wheel and the wet strip up your back from the rear wheel.
  11. Avoid these slippery things where possible: Painted markings, metal drain covers and manholes, metal studs and cats eyes, rainbow coloured oil splotches, wet leaves, wooden surfaces, mud.
  12. Even when running good tires, traction on wet roads is hard to come by. An easy way to increase traction on wet roads is to lower your tire pressure. A drop of just 5-10 psi could improve traction noticeably.
  13. When riding with others, it is best not to ride directly behind the rider in front as this throws up spray and grit. Also, stopping distances will be affected in the wet so it is best to keep a safe distance apart to avoid collisions.

See you on the roads.

Marv

Your normal tranmission has resumed….

Dear Roulers,

I’ve been offline for a few weeks owing to an unscheduled house move and a short overseas holiday at Easter time.  It also meant 2 weeks of ZERO kilometres being contributed to my overall goal of riding 5,000 kilometres in calendar year 2015.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any cycling related holiday photos as I didn’t have my camera handy at the needed time.  However, I was amazed to see a small peloton, riding along the main street at Kata Beach, Phuket.  I had been ‘hearing’ about the emergence of cycling as a past-time/sport in SE-Asia for awhile now.  Seeing a bunch dressed in their best ‘pro’ gear was impressive.  Whilst there aren’t any significant mountains on Phuket there are several nasty hills with very steep roads. So combined with chaotic traffic and heat, they present a decent challenge.  Also, it explained why half the group were on mountain bikes.

Earlier in the trip, I was also impressed to see cyclists out commuting early in the morning in Kuala Lumpur.  If there is one place that car traffic needs reducing in, its KL.  Its central area reminds me an awful lot of the anarchic roads of central London, except with hills.  Having a large population commuting by car to the central area makes very little sense to me.  Apparently local authorities are of the same opinion as they schedule bi-monthly a car free mornings.  You can read about them here ->  http://www.klcarfreemorning.com/.  One of which was held on day the Wife and I left for Phuket….Bravo.

The Easter break  gave me an opportunity to read a few cycling related books, “Lanterne Rouge – The Last Man in the Tour d’France” by Max Leonard and “Gironimo!: Riding the Very Terrible 1914 Tour of Italy” by Tim Moore.  Lanterne Rouge is an excellent read and highly recommended.  I’m half way through Gironimo but its been very amusing and has once again proven to me that something both heroic and stupid occurs when a 40 something like myself attempts to ride a bike over a very long distance.

Finally, I managed to catch the Paris-Roubaix 2015 edition last night and was thrilled to see a close race.  Congratulations to John Degenkolb for a well executed race.  However I was appalled to the flagrant disregard by the peloton for the TGV level crossing boom gates.  Some of the last to cross were very fortunate not to be collected by a TGV.  If you haven’t seen the footage, click on this link to view the story published on the Guardian. This dismay turned to disbelief when race organisers ignored their own rules and failed to disqualify any rider for ignoring the signals.  Unbelievable.

That’s it for now, I’m looking forward to getting back on my bike tomorrow morning.

Marv

Stop thief…that’s my bloody bike!!!!

Dear Roulers,

In case you weren’t aware of it, Melbourne cyclists are in the middle of a bike theft epidemic. You’ve only to glance at: http://www.melbournecyclist.com/group/stolenbikes, to see how bad its becoming. A couple of recent articles in the Age opened my eyes to this issue: Bicycle Thieves target Australian Open and Thieves disappear with thousands of bicycles.

According to Police Statistics, January is the worse month for bike theft with on average 100 more bikes being stolen than in other months. Police reckon that over 5000 bikes worth, $3.9 million, where stolen in financial year 2013/14. Sadly, according the statistics, your chances of getting your beloved beast of burden back are very slim, less than 10%…..SO BEWARE.

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So with this grim reality in mind here’s the bumper list of tips for bike theft prevention.

DO’s

  • Always lock up your bike.
  • Lock it up inside your house or apartment.
  • If its locked up in a shed or garage lock it up to something that’s immovable or very heavy.
  • If you are travelling about, lock it up in a well lit place with foot traffic. Do make changes to your routine eg locking up in different places. This avoids being cased by a would-be bike thief.
  • Lock your bike up to something metal and large.
  • Make sure that your bike is locked more securely than your neighbours.
  • Keep your bike close, in visible range.
  • Wheel theft is still expensive, lock your front wheel.
  • Buy and commute on a crappy bike, it will be less of a target.
  • If you ride an expensive bike, camouflage the branding by covering it up with tape or stickers.
  • If your bike has a metal frame engrave your name and number on the bottom bracket of the frame.
  • Register your bike with the police.
  • Make sure you have a photo of your bike and that it is covered by your house and contents insurance.
  • If you are Strava user use the settings to set a privacy perimeter around your work and home destinations. This way you don’t lead thieves to location of your bike. Don’t enter the model of your bike.

DON’Ts

  • Never lock up your bike on the end of bike rack, it’s more visible to thieves, better to lock it in the middle.
  • Avoid locking up on parking meters and sign posts. It’s possible for thieves to hoist your bike over the top of them.
  • Avoid bike theft hotspots – in Melbourne this means Brunswick, Fitzroy, Richmond and St.Kilda.
  • Avoid locking up your bike on a verandah or front yard.

WRT to locks and locking

DO

  • Use harden chain with small u-locks, that fit tightly around the frame and wheels. Bigger u-locks allow a thief leverage to force the locking mechanism.
  • Position the lock with keyway facing down. This makes it more difficult to force the lock.
  • Use high quality locks eg secure gold standard.
  • Lock through the frame and rear wheel.
  • Use two locks, this twice the deterrent.

DON’T

  • Do not use cable locks, they are too easy to cut.

The correct number of bikes to own

Dear Roulers,

I’ve been having a terrible run of outs with mechanical failures.  My Villier still isn’t back from the workshop due to the non-arrival of parts from whoever the local Conagolo dealer is….bummer.  The yesterday on my afternoon commute home I discovered that the back wheel of Cannondale has a whopping big buckle.

I’ll be buggered if I can figure out how exactly, I did that.  The buckle was so bad that it felt like the hub may have been shot.  Either way I’m be experiencing my own personal walk of shame to the bike shop with yet another tale of woe.  20141020-GiantSedona-SMLHowever the upside is that I still do have a third string bike, my Giant Sedona, purchased in 1997, that bike is heading towards 20 years old. The only bits that I’ve replaced on it have been the saddle twice, the pedals for some shiny one sided SPD clip-ins, the bottle cage and grippy tyres for some slicks.  Its showing signs of age with scratches and rust marks, but it’s still going strong.

I took it out for a ride with my wife this morning and was able to keep up with her on her much newer Giant Defy.  It must have looked a bit odd to the passing pelotons. It’s amazing the difference in power you can put into the bottom bracket of rigid frame bike.  By comparison the head shok Cannondale seemed to be about 2 to 3km slower on the same ride last week. All I can say is thank God I ignored my wife and kept my third string bike. It simply reminds me of the often quoted Velominati law of bike ownership ->

 Rule #12: The correct number of bikes to own is n+1

On http://abicycleculture.tumblr.com/, I found a variation of the law provided by Corkgrips, who clearly has the same domestic “issues”, that I have:

While the minimum number of bikes one should own is three, the correct number is n+1, where n is the number of bikes currently owned.  This equation may also be re-written as s-1, where s is the number of bikes owned that would result in separation from your partner….from Velominati’s Rules

Until next time, see you on the roads.